Why Should You Buy a Dog Kennel

Dogs by nature are animals that get a safe feeling in a den,
much like their cousins the wolves. If you can introduce your
dog to the plastic or wire kennel correctly, it provides a
feeling of security and becomes a refuge. Many times your dog
will be in need of some peace and quiet, or to just get away
from the busy activities in your home.

For this reason, kennels can be a great tool for house
training. An appropriately-sized kennel will be a huge aid
toward this effort as usually a puppy will not soil the place
where they must lay. Kennels will help a puppy control his or
her bladder as they must hold urination until they are let out
at certain times of the day. In the first three days you have
your puppy or dog, he should be confined to the kennel only and
let out at planned times to go outside and urinate. After eating
and a brief playtime your dog should be kenneled again to assure
they don't wander off and urinate somewhere in your home. One
hour after eating, take your dog outside and repeat the command
to go potty. This method of kennel training is the best way to
house train your pet.

A kennel is also good for protecting your home. Puppies or
grown dogs tend to get curious and wander in your home most
times finding something to chew on that they shouldn't. Since
dogs have a natural love of a den type situation, they will love
to go to thier kennel to rest or to just chill out for a while.
A puppy espeically should be confined to a small area or kennel
until they are fully house trained. Make sure they have toys or
chew bones to keep them occupied in their kennel.

Kennel's are also good for keeping your pet contained on a long
trip in the car. Safety is key with pets in the car and often
they will get underfoot and cause accidents if they are not
contained in a kennel.

A wire mesh kennel is a good selection for all uses. Great for
in your home or in the back of your car. And most kennel's come
with a plastic pan in the bottom to collect any accidents that
may occur. Wire mesh provides them with a great veiw of whats
going on around them, thus giving them a sense that they are
still part of whats going on in the area.

If you have any questions on Dog Supplies or Posh Pampered
Pets, please call 979-221-7251 or email us at
info@... Our home office is located in Waller,
Texas, with warehouses located throughout the United States such
as Detroit Michigan (MI), Indianapolis Indiana (IN),
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Columbus Ohio (OH).

About The Author: This article was written by Janine Carter,
owner of Posh Pampered Pets. If you have any questions regarding
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Saint Bernard Dog: The Great Rescuer Barry

Dogs are great rescuers. We all know that, but some of them are
better at the job than others. What could be nobler than saving
lives. Barry, who lived and made history between 1800 and 1814,
was one of the greatest rescue dogs the world has ever seen.
Barry was a Saint Bernard dog who earned worldwide fame for the
brave rescue operations he carried out during his lifetime. His
painting by Salvatore Rosa still hangs in a hospice in the Alps
of Switzerland.

Saint Benard dogs have such a keen sense of smell that they can
smell out people burried deep in the snow. Barry, like other
Saint Bernard dogs, was trained by the monks to rescue lost
travelers in the Alps. The Bernards, on finding a man to be
recued, lie on top of the person and start licking his face to
wake him up. Simultaneously they bark out aloud calling the
monks for assistance, hearing which the monks would come with a
stretcher and warm blankets to keep the person warm. The fellow
is then taken to the monastry and is served warm tea and food.

Barry was an expert rescue dog well versed with the rescue
drill and amongst his famous rescue adventures there is this
famous story about a young boy who was found stranded on an icy
ledge, all covered with thick snow under an ongoing, heavy
snowfall. It was not possible for any man to climb that icy
ledge, but Barry braving all adversity crawled inch by inch to
the injured boy. As the drill has it, Barry started licking the
boy's face but the snowfall was too heavy and the ledge too
difficult to climb for any monk to reach the boy. So, there was
no help coming. The boy, however, woke up due to Barry's warm
licks and wrapped his arms around Barry's strong neck. The dog
pulled him carefully and bravely from the ledge and brought him
to safety.

It is just one of the many gallant rescue stories of this great
rescuer Saint Bernard. He lived from 1800 to 1814 and saved more
than 40 lives in his lifetime.

About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dog training and care visit
http://www.thepetdogs.com/

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Human-Animal Bond in High Tech-Low Touch Society

Would you like to feel less stressed, to be in great physical
health, to laugh more, and to be loved unconditionally? What I
am prescribing are the benefits of the human-animal bond. We
live in a high tech-low touch society. Our communication is
constant with emails, voice mail, text messaging, and automated
company phones. We are never "not connected" and for some
people, that is a source of stress. However, we can go for
extended periods of time without actually talking to a real
person in our 24/7 world. We need our connections with animals
for many reasons. Bonds can be formed with a wide array of
animals including dogs, cats, horses, birds, or even exotic
animals like snakes. Our pets are with us through life passages
such as marriage, family additions, divorce, loss of jobs, and
death of loved ones. Their influence and impact on us can be
profound.

The American Veterinary Medical Association Census of 2007
reported that 37% of American households have dogs and 32% of
households have cats. However, cats outnumber dogs, 81 million
to 72 million. According to the American Association of
Human-Animal Bond Veterinarians, the human-animal bond is a
mutually beneficial and dynamic relationship between people and
other animals. Founded in 1982, the Center for the Human-Animal
Bond at the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine
explores the dynamic relationships between people, animals and
their environment. The Delta Foundation was established in 1977
to understand the quality of the relationship between pet
owners, pets, and care givers, both human and veterinary. Today,
the Delta Society is known for the Human-Animal Health
Connection.

Pets can offer a wide variety of physical and psychological
benefits to adults and children. What are the physical benefits?
Numerous studies have been conducted to research the affects of
pets in our lives. Highlights of a few studies include the
following results. Pet owners have lower blood pressure as well
as lower triglyceride and cholesterol levels than non-owners.
Pet owners have better physical health due to exercise with
their pets. Dog ownership increases the odds for survival in
persons who have had a heart attack from 1 in 15 to 1 in 87.
Heart attack sufferers who own a dog have an eight times better
chance of surviving one year as opposed to non-owners. Seniors
who own dogs go to the doctor less often than those who do not
have dogs. Medication costs dropped from an average of $3.80 per
patient per day to $1.18 per patient per day when nursing homes
in Texas, Missouri, and New York allowed for pets and plants to
be introduced into the patient's environment.

What are the psychological benefits? Pets are stress busters.
"Can you really look at a sleeping cat and be tense?" asks Jane
Pauley. They also help us relax and focus our attention on them
and not our worries and concerns. When I return home from a
challenging work day that was topped off with navigating stop
and go traffic snarls, my cat, Lexie Lee, changes my mood
immediately. I bet my blood pressure drops as well! When we are
with our animals, we can take our masks off and let our guard
down and just be true to ourselves.

My beloved cat, Tatianna, did not care if my hair was unkempt,
my spirits depressed, or my face a fright! She was always by my
side, blue eyes focused, content to sit and purr on my lap. Pets
lift our spirits by decreasing feelings of loneliness and
isolation.

Pets make us laugh. All I have to do is get out Lexie Lee's
feather toy that dangles on a pole, swing it around the room a
few times, and watch her acrobatics in catching the feathers,
and I am laughing. Pets offer us unconditional love.

Just being able to pet them and having something to touch is an
important part of our psychological welfare. When I need a break
from my high tech-low touch work, I know Lexie Lee will eagerly
join me on the couch to be petted or brushed. Pets give us a
safe environment to express our thoughts, fears, and feelings,
and we will not be judged, but supported by their mere presence.
We can rehearse difficult and challenging conversations with
them like asking for a raise or dealing with a family problem. I
have rehearsed public speeches with Lexie Lee, and she never
heckles me! Pets help us feel safer in our homes — especially
when we have dogs to guard us. We feel less likely to be a
victim of crime when we are walking a dog.

Pets teach children to be caregivers, to be empathetic, and to
learn responsibility. Pets can help us adjust to serious illness
or death—especially children who face losing a parent. They can
help all of us learn to love again after devastating personal
losses. I credit Tatianna for standing by me through the
entrance and exit of people and pets in my life including the
deaths of my father and boyfriend as well as the deaths of
beloved cats, Noelle, Taittinger, and Marnie. Tatianna had an
ongoing repertoire of joy to share with me and was destined to
draw on it indefinitely for my benefit and healing.

In nursing homes, residents are more apt to smile, talk, reach
out to people, be attentive, and be alert. They are less
depressed if pets are on the premises. Pets can also give the
elderly person a reason for living and a reason to get out of
bed since the animal needs daily attention. My ninety-year-old
mother's schedule revolves around feeding and caring for her
companion dog, Packer.

When I have been at the computer keyboard for hours, answered
one hundred emails for the day, and attempted to return voice
mail messages, only to leave another voice mail, my bond with
Lexie Lee is a calming and centering force in my life. She is my
stress buster. With her hanging over my lap or sleeping a few
feet from my desk, I am truly connected to love and to life.

About The Author: Linda A. Mohr is the award-winning author of
Tatianna — Tales and Teachings of My Feline Friend and Catnip
Connection blog for Seattle Press-Intelligencer, a professor at
Northwood University, and the co-founder of Pet Apothecary. She
is a member of Cat Writers' Association with human-animal bond
expertise. Visit http://www.lindamohr.net or
http://blog.seattlepi.nwsource.com/catnipconnection.

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Dog Training Collar aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

In an era of high speed Internet access, cell phones, and palm
pilot organizers, it was only a matter of time before dog
trainer would adopt the electronic training collar as an
acceptable and humane way of training dogs. Notice I did not use
the term "shock collar". The reason will become clear after a
brief look into the evolution of "The Dog Training Collar".

More than 30 years ago, electronic collars made their way into
the dog-training scene. However, because the first generation of
dog training collars were only capable of delivering one level
of stimulation to the dog, they where appropriately nicknamed
shock collars. These collars required the trainer to select the
level of correction by inserting an "intensity plug" into the
collar (before putting the collar on the dog for training, once
the collar was on the dog they could not change the intensity
level). This plug would then cause the collar to emit the same
level of stimulation for all corrections issued during the
session, regardless of how small or large the infraction – hence
the nickname - shock collars.

The term shock collar had a very negative connotation that
dramatically decreased their widespread acceptance in the
dog-training arena. It was commonly stated that, "Only hard
headed dogs that could not be trained by traditional means where
run with shock collars". As a result, very few professional
trainers were public about their use of electronic dog collars
fearing that clients would not entrust dogs to their care.
However, some professionals, including legendary Rex Carr, where
up-front about their use of electronic collars and worked
diligently at developing a training program that utilized the
collar in a way dogs could understand. Rex quickly became know
as a pioneer of training retrievers with electronic collars. In
fact, most if not all training techniques used today with
retrievers are derivate from Rex's original work.

Recognizing the limitations of the first generation of
electronic dog training collars, manufacturers worked to refine
their design. It was only until the release of the second
generation of electronic collars that allowed the trainer to
vary the level of intensity from the hand-held transmitter. The
trainer could now select from one of three levels of intensity
for a particular "intensity plug": high, medium and low. This
design still had its shortcomings. The trainer still only had 3
levels of stimulation to choose from and the lowest level of
stimulation was typically inappropriate for simple corrections.

While the second generation of electronic collars was a great
advancement in dog training collars, this technology was
replaced in the last decade by collars that gave the trainer the
ability to select multiple levels of intensity from the
transmitter. This single advancement combined with customer
education has done more for the widespread acceptance of the
electronic collar than any other advancement in the collar's
history.

Manufacturers quickly recognized that a great design alone was
not going to give their product the acceptance needed to support
their newfound industry; it was only through education that new
customers would understand how to use these training devices to
advance their dog in a proper manner. The most significant form
of education came when Tri-Tronics released a book written by
Jim and Phyllis Dobbs and Alice Woodward, Tri-Tronics Training
Retrievers. This book focused on incorporating electronic
collars in all phases of training retrievers and walked the
reader through a series of detailed steps, bringing a dog from A
to Z.

As a result of the technological advancements and the
educational support provided by manufacturers, the days of the
"shock collar" are gone, giving way to the remote training
collars. Today, like cell phones, its becoming more difficult to
find someone who trains without an electronic collar.

The remainder of this article will focus on the technology
found in many of the collars manufactured by the industry
leaders and explain how each is applicable in training gundogs
and your selection of an electronic collar.

Types of Stimulation - Continuous Stimulation vs. Momentary
Stimulation

Let's start by defining the two forms of stimulation available
on the market today. First, there is continuous stimulation;
this method of stimulation delivers an electronic correction to
the dog for as long as the trainer presses the button on the
transmitter. If the trainer holds the button down for five
seconds the dog will receive five seconds worth of stimulation.
However, most models on the market today will timeout after
seven to ten seconds of stimulation has been applied to the dog.

The second form of stimulation available on some collars is
momentary stimulation. Momentary stimulation, sometimes call a
"nick", is different from continuous stimulation in one simple
way; no matter how long the trainer depresses the button, the
dog will only receive a short electronic correction, the
duration of which is measured in a fraction of a second.

When might you use continuous or momentary stimulation?

Continuous form of stimulation can be used in training when you
need to extend a meaningful correction to your dog and
re-establish control of a training situation. A great example of
a training scenario where you might need to apply continuous
stimulation is when you need to gain control over your dog on a
runner. In this situation, a simple "nick" or short burst of
stimulation may do nothing to stop him on that illusive cock
pheasant. Often, a dog might just run through a short burst of
electronic stimulation because he is too excited about the
prospect of fresh scent to listen to your sit or "hup" whistle.
The continuous level of stimulation is what is required to stop
him in his tracks. Because the correction is applied to the dog
for as long as you hold the button down the effect to the dog is
a stronger form of correction. Another example of when
continuous stimulation would be a valuable training tool would
be when teaching a flushing dog to turn on the "come around"
whistle. Here you would use a much lower level of stimulation
and apply the stimulation in conjunction with the "come around"
command/whistle, only releasing the pressure when he complies
with your command. In both training scenarios, the dog has to be
taught the way out of the pressure (or the correct response)
before utilizing a collar.

Momentary stimulation can be used in training when you need to
apply a short, light form of correction. A classic training
scenario where we would use momentary stimulation is when
utilizing "indirect pressure" during training. With indirect
pressure, you want to apply a short, quick correction for not
compiling to a command after you have gotten control over him
through attrition. For example, if your dog refuses to take a
"right-handed angled back" command on a blind retrieve,
momentary stimulation can be used after stopping him with a firm
"sit" whistle, "nicking" him once he is sitting for refusing to
take the "right-handed angle back" command, then re-issuing the
"angle back" command. In this case, the momentary stimulation
applies a short less intense correction that does not "rock the
boat".

Range

Upon first consideration, you may not think that you would need
an electronic collar that has a range of one mile. However, if
you are hunting over a big running pointer, in the thick
backwoods of New England, you might be better served with a
collar that has an effective range of a half-mile or greater
than a collar with less range. Most manufacturers quote
"line-of-sight" range for their collars. However, the effective
range of an electronic collar can vary according to terrain and
environmental conditions. For basic obedience and most yard
work, a collar that is capable of extending to 150 to 300 yards
is more than adequate. However, if you are training in the field
or working in any type of cover, more range is needed to produce
a reliable signal.

Intensity Levels

Maybe the most important advancements in the electronic collar
in the past ten years has been the change in the design of the
electronic collar to allow a trainer to change levels of
stimulation at the transmitter, rather than at the collar. In
days gone past, a trainer could only change the levels of
stimulation by physically changing the "intensity plug" and/or
contact points on the collar itself.

Today, virtually all quality dog training collars on the market
allow the trainer to select the level of stimulation from the
transmitter. The old term, shock collar is no longer accurate,
the term "electronic training collars" has since replaced this
term primarily due to this single design change which allows a
trainer to select just the right amount of stimulation necessary
to correct the dog making the electronic collar a humane
approach to training dogs. Now you can select a mild level of
stimulation (barely noticeable by human touch) or a severe level
of correction that would make even the toughest man take notice.
The responsibility is now with the trainer to select the
appropriate correction for the dog.

Transmitter Design

Probably the most important factor in regards to usability of
an electronic collar rests within the transmitter design. Most
transmitters on the market today fit easily into your hand.
However, differences exist in the design of the transmitter.
Some manufacturers make transmitters that are small, lightweight
and can be hung on a lanyard. Other manufacturers make
transmitters that are larger but extremely easy to use. Like
most things in life, it comes down to personal preference. In
order for any collar to be an effective training device it must
be easy to use and be able to apply the correction at the exact
moment it is needed. The last thing you want to be doing is
fumbling for your transmitter, setting an intensity level when
you should be delivering a firm correction that the dog will
understand.

The last feature to take into consideration when evaluating the
design of a transmitter is the resistance of the transmitter to
weather. Some transmitters are water resistant while others are
waterproof. If using an electronic collar while waterfowling you
might want to consider a transmitter that is waterproof and can
endure a "fall in the drink".

Collar Design

The final consideration when choosing an electronic collar is
the design of the collar/receiver unit itself. Some earlier
models of electronic collars, intended for upland use, had
external antennas that extended beyond the body of the collar
and often became caught up on or became damaged by heavy brush.
This design has since been replaced with antennas that are
self-contained within the body of the receiver unit.

Like the transmitter design, collars also come in units that
are water resistant and waterproof. If you intend on using your
dog in or around water I would highly recommend purchasing a
collar that is waterproof. These collars can be fully submerged
in water while in the field without harming the internal
electronics, a must for most hunters.

Final Note

Used correctly, the electronic collar can be an invaluable tool
when training your gundog. There is no other tool that can help
you effectively apply a correction to your dog than one of the
many electronic collars on the market today. The days of chasing
down your dog to apply a traditional correction (only have lost
the significance of the timing) are long gone. Now you can
effectively and reliably apply the correction at the moment when
it is needed. Do your homework, if you have any questions
regarding the selection an dog training collars a.k.a. shock
collars, please don't hesitate to visit us at Gun Dogs Online.

About The Author: Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of
GundogsOnline.com, the internet's premiere online magazine
dedicated to http://www.gundogsonline.com/ hunting dogs. If you
have any questions regarding choosing
http://www.gundogsonline.com/dog-training-collars/ dog training
collars or http://www.gundogsonline.com/shock-collar/ shock
collars, please don't hesitate to visit their site.

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Bringing A New Pup Home

So you got a little cutie puppy in your hand. He looks so cute
with his little sweet nose and playful eyes. So what next?
Naturally, you'll take the little one home...Wait for a second.
It may not be as easy as it seems. Being a pet lover, you have
many pets at home as well, and this one is a new pet and not the
only one!

In that case it is you who is responsible to build comfort
between your pets. They after all have to coexist peacefully
under one roof. If you are concerned as to how your other pets
would take to their new companion, your concerns are valid
because different animals react differently to the presence of
an additional pet. So the introduction can be a lot more tricky
than the Hello-I-am-Alice kind of very human introductions.

Ensure that you give an entire day to the animal to warm up to
its surrounding and to get accustomed to the presence of other
pet(s). When you bring it home make sure that you keep him
company. Don't leave him home alone. That could make him very,
very uncomfortable.

Now, if you have a cat at home, you need to be extra careful.
Not too much, just a little prudence would do. On the first few
times when the puppy and cat come face to face, make sure that
the puppy is on lease so that you could pull him clear of the
cat in case he reacts unpredictably. Cats are normally very
territorial and tend to assert their territorial rights. The
puppy must be made to understand early that he is not supposed
to intrude into the cat's personal space, neither should he
meddle with cats things. They'll eventually grow friendly, but
if they do not contact your vet as soon as you can.

If there is another dog at home, the lease rule remains so that
no uncalled for harm is done. If there are many dogs at home,
ensure that the puppy gets to know each of them separately and
there is no collective introduction. The little one should not
be taken to the big dog, for in that case the big one will be
meeting the young one in his territory, which could be rather
menancing the newcomer.

A little bit of growling and sniffing is natural but snapping
and biting are not. So, if they indulge in any such unacceptable
behaviour, they must be disciplined. Make sure that your current
dog does not feel left out on the account of the new pet. So,
make sure that your affection towards him increases.

Seniority must be maintained in eating and playing. So, when it
is time to eat, the new one should eat separately and its food
should be served only after the older ones. The new toys must
also first go to the senior pets.

They'll gradually grow into good companions and you'll have a
nice little happy family of friendly pets.

About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dogs visit http://www.thepetdogs.com/

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Bringing That Sweetest Little 'puppy' Home

The cutest dog you must have seen is not of any certain breed
and if you think hard enough you'll find that the cutest and
prettiest of dogs are not actually dogs; they are puppies.

There is nothing quite as cut as a little doggy. He jumps
around like a furry tennis ball. Energetic, bubbly and happy, it
ever seems so pleased, so unbothered and so unperturbed by the
worries of life and living. A ball of happy innocence. What else
do you need to relax after a hectic day of work. No massage in
the world can relax you as completely as the very sight of
little doggy. And if you have kids, nothing like it. They make
the best picture together- little ones playing together.

So far as training is concerned, puppies are best pupils
because they learn quickly and without their personal
prejudices. Now if you are ready to get a puppy for yourself you
may rush to the nearby pet store to check if they have anything
that catches your fancy. It is best to bring in a puppy in the
morning so that it gets enough time to get used to its
surroundings before it's bedtime.

Do not leave the puppy alone for long durations immediately
after having brought him home. The little one should not be left
alone at home from day two because it is likely to sadden him a
lot. The fellow would miss its companions a lot after being
separated from them. So, make sure that someone is there to take
care of it when you are not around.

These little things have a simple life, especially those who
have just weaned. All they do is eat-sleep-play, eat-sleep-play.
Nothing else. Take care that you have his little sleeping bed
ready when he feels tired because the fellow is likely to
stretch right there where it feels tired. Cuddle it and take it
to his bed and lay him there. Eventually, he will get into the
habit of coming around to sleep where he wakes up regularly.

Feeding is important too because they are frequent eaters in
the beginning. A 12 week old puppy eats four times a day. When
it is 12 weeks to 6 months old, you may reduce it to 3 times a
day. Between six months and one year of age, it would be happy
with one meal a day, of course depending upon the overall size
and weight of it.

And don't forget the puppies are much like children. Scold them
gently and praise them profusely. That's the best way to train
them.

About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dogs visit http://www.thepetdogs.com/

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Training Dogs: Tips On Breaking Bad Pet Habits

You want a nice, disciplined dog, who doesn't chew on anything
and everything in the sight and doesn't deafen you with his
needless barks. These are one of the most common dog problems
and can be really irritating at times. They can, however, be
corrected by proper training. Here are a few effective ways of
bringing in correction in your dog's habits:

Barking
Barking come naturally to them, and what use is a dog that
doesn't even bark. However, at time dogs overdo it and keep
barking without a reason and sometimes even after their barks
have been taken cognizance of and the offending element removed.
Then, it is high time he had his lessons in "barking habits."

Most often dogs bark to tell the owner what they feel he must
know, like an intruder, any unusual moving object, any unusual
activity or sound. They feel that it is important for them to
inform you at the earliest. This kind of warning bark is
perfectly alright, but if your dog keep barking even after
having been told not to, he needs to be trained about it.

In such situations take a squirt bottle filled with water, and
every time the dog barks unnecessarily squirt the liquid right
in his face after telling him not to bark in a loud "No". The
liquid or the squirt wouldn't harm the creature but he wouldn't
like it and would get the message eventually. This is
disciplinary action and must be adopted only when the dog
doesn't respond to your verbal commands. Keep it as a second
option and not the first.

Chewing
Chewing is not only destructive but is potentially dangerous to
the dog as well, because they might ingest pieces of plastic or
wood or any other harmful object that could block their
intestines, which could be life threatening. Puppies' chewing is
acceptable because that's part of teething, but if the habit is
retained into adulthood, it needs to be corrected.

It is better to start early. So, you need not wait till the dog
grows up to teach him not to chew on things that are not meant
for his chewing. The strategy for the pup as well as for the dog
remain the same. Get some toys for the dog to chew on, and train
him to restrict his chewing to them. Watch him carefully and if
he chews on things other than his chew toys, look into his eyes
at close quarters and say in a loud voice, "No!" and then offer
one of his chew toys. He would get the message as to what has to
be chewed on and what not.

Begging for food
Never give the dog to eat from your dinner table or your plate.
Make him learn that he gets nothing by begging for food but gets
to eat at the proper time. And if, unfortunately you already
have a dog who has such a habit lock him up in another room
while you eat.

You want dogs to behave well, but good behaviour is not
something one is born with. One-- be it a human or a dog-- has
to learn to behave. So, right training is the key.

About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dog training and care visit

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Where Did Zoos Come From?

What country has the most?

Were animals tamed in the Stone Age?

Where was there ever an all-day parade of wildlife?

Whose zoo required 10,000 keepers?

Intriguing questions all. Here are some of the answers my
research uncovered.

We know that the first zoos of which we have recorded evidence
are those pictured on the walls of Egyptian tombs. Paintings
around 2500 B.C. depict gazelles, wild goats, oryx and other
antelopes as zoo animals.

History also tells us the Chinese kept wild animals in "parks
of intelligence," starting about 3,000 years ago.

But I was also interested to find that even back in the Stone
Age, man apparently tamed dogs, horses, goats and cattle for
domestic use.

During my years on the San Diego Zoo staff, I learned that as
long ago as the 10th century, Europe had zoos. In the 1960s some
400 collections existed in the world, our country claiming the
most with 87, followed by Germany's 42 menageries open to the
public.

The classical Greeks are said to have revolutionized the zoo
concept of only belonging to the rich and powerful. By the 5th
Century B.C. common people could pay to see caged birds and wild
animals.

Alexander the Great had special animal collectors attached to
his armies to gather specimens for the royal zoos. In those
days, monkeys from Africa and Asia were common household pets in
Greece.

In the 3rd Century B.C., Alexandria, sometimes called the
world's greatest city, apparently had one of the finest zoos of
its time. Its wild inhabitants were paraded to the huge stadium
every year on the day of the Feast of Dionysus.

One such parade, during the reign of Ptolemy II, reportedly
took all day to pass the reviewing stand! The parade included 24
lions, 14 leopards, 96 elephants, 16 ostriches, 16 cheetahs, a
white bear, 12 camels, a giraffe, a huge python, innumerable
deer, antelopes, gazelles and even rhinoceros.

Rich Romans had private zoos. But the imperial city eventually
had a government zoo, mainly to provide animals for the circuses
in the Coliseum. This zoo was limited to the wildest, largest
and fiercest animals.

Private zoos in early Rome concentrated on birds, the more
brilliantly feathered, the better.

The next notable western zoo had to wait until the first great
western emperor appeared. Charlemagne had a trio of zoos, with
monkeys and an elephant donated by Haroun al Raschid, the caliph
of "The 100l Nights."

Even William the Conqueror, not a particularly rich or powerful
king, had a small royal zoo. It turned out to be a forerunner of
the deer parks that became popular among England's landed
gentry.

Marco Polo claimed that Kublai Khan had the greatest zoo up to
his time. It required, Marco claimed, 10,000 zoo keepers!

Emperor Frederick II had three permanent zoos in Italy. He sent
some specimens from them to his friend Henry III of England.
That began the English king's zoo, housed in the Tower of
London.

In one way, Louis XIV of France was the father of the modern
zoo. He built his Menagerie du Parc at Versailles on a unified
plan, much like modern zoos, with cages and enclosures grouped
together. Until then zoos had been spread over the owner's
parkland, aviaries in place, bear pits in another, and lion
cages far away.

Louis also landscaped his zoo, and put in plants and trees as
rare and exotic as some of his animals. This may well have been
the first zoological garden, as contrasted with menagerie.

A few centuries later, the San Diego Zoo was the first major
U.S. zoo to build on that concept. Today the horticulture is
believed to be worth more than the collection of 5,000 exotics.

However, the Philadelphia Zoological Society planned the first
U.S. zoo back in 1859, but start of construction was held up
when the Civil War broke out. It finally opened in 1874, having
been rushed to completion in time for the Centennial Exposition
of 1876.

The San Diego Zoo also got its start with an international
fair, the Panama-California Exposition, in l916. The Fair
included animal exhibits, and when the Exposition was over, many
of the exhibitors just took off, leaving the animals.

A local physician, Dr. Harry Wegeforth, while riding his horse
in the city's Balboa Park, heard a distant roar from one of the
abandoned lion cages. It sparked the idea to build San Diego a
zoo nearby to care for these animals, and he soon set out to
raise funds and select a location.

A world-class zoological garden eventually resulted, its 5,000
animal collection attracting over 3 million visitors a year.

Zoos exist to exhibit, study, and preserve animals. Whatever
other purposes a zoo serves, whatever other uses a zoo may be
put to, it is basically a residence for animals. Zoos are for
people, but the animal and its welfare come first (something not
true in many of the sad-looking "roadside zoos" housing
miserable animals).

About The Author: Bill Seaton is a prize-winning author and
lecturer who has served nearly 25 years as public relations
director of the San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld and the California State
Lottery. To learn more about the San Diego resident's books,
blogs and awards.

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How to Brush My Dogs Teeth

A devoted dog owner does everything humanly possible to ensure their dogs hygiene. However, one area that bewilders dog owners is how to brush my dogs teeth? Why Brush A Dog's Teeth? Dogs suffer from a variety of tooth problems, just like their owners: 1. Loose teeth 2. Abscess teeth 3. Cavities 4. Periodontal disease The common symptom of periodontal disease is bad breath. In fact, 98% of all dogs with bad breath suffer from periodontal disease. If there is a delay in treatment, the bacterial infection can develop and spread to the dog's kidney, liver, heart and brain. Thus, it becomes important to brush the dogs teeth. Steps In Brushing A Dog's Teeth: Many dog owners take their dogs to the vet for a regular teeth cleaning. Many vets offer medical plans for pets that include this important routine. Usually they will put the dog to sleep or medicate the dog to avoid bites. This is safer for the dog and the vet. However, if you cannot afford to do this and/or choose to do it yourself, below are the steps to take in cleaning your dog's teeth. 1. Allow a vet to check the dog's teeth before brushing. Otherwise, brushing may be painful, and it will associate brushing with pain. 2. The dog needs to be used to the owner checking its mouth regularly. Reward the dog for cooperation. 3. Get a pet dental kit from a pet store. It needs to have a pet toothbrush, pet toothpaste and a finger toothbrush that the owner can wear on a finger and brush the dog's teeth. 4. Human toothpaste is not edible and dogs are likely to swallow toothpaste.. Therefore, try to buy beefy flavored toothpaste that the dog can enjoy. In addition, avoid toothpastes with detergents, salt or baking soda. Instead, try to buy toothpastes containing fluoride and enzymes, as they are good for dogs' teeth. 5. Ease in the brushing process. On day one, merely wipe the dog's teeth with gauze. Later, adapt the pet to warm water brushing. Finally, add toothpaste. 6. To brush the dog's teeth, place the brush bristles at a 45-degree angle to the teeth, at the border where the teeth meet the gums. Gently, move the brush in an oval motion, to complete ten back-and-forth motions. Then, move the brush to cover at least 3-4 teeth at a time. 7. Remember to brush the dogs teeth all the way to the back, which is where most problems develop. Other Important Tips: A dog's dental hygiene will not be flawless, if you only brush the dog's teeth. Try some of these tips to ensure a good dental health for the dog: 1. To avoid the onset of periodontal disease, take the dog to a vet for regular checks. 2. Vets can also clean the teeth occasionally to remove tartar deposits. 3. Feed hard foods to the dog or give bones or hard toys to chew on. These are certain systematic ways of avoiding dental problems, but do not forget to brush your dog's teeth regularly. About The Author: "Healthcare for Dogs" is all about Dogs Health Care, Supplies and Training. . __,_._,___

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Dog Food Reviews – 6 Reasons To Read Them

There are many different types of dog foods out there on the market today and with the dog food recall scare, more people are being cautious about the foods they purchase for their dogs. Many dog owners are turning to dog food reviews to help them pick out the best dog food for their pets. Usually you'll find that these reviews are quite easy to find, especially if you look for them online. If you are concerned about the well being of your dog, you'll want to know more about their food before you purchase it. So, the following are some important reasons that you should take the time to read dog food reviews before purchasing a dog food product. Reason #1 – Easy Compare Prices of Dog Foods – One great reason for reading dog food reviews is to find out about the prices of different foods so it is easy to compare different prices. Yes, you'll want to be sure to get dog food that is quality; however, you'll no doubt want to make sure that you get a good deal on the dog food as well. So, reading reviews can help you check into the prices of the food so you can find the best possible deal when you go out to buy it. Reason #2 – See What Others Have to Say – Reading dog food reviews can also help you see what others have to say about the dog food as well. You'll find out how it worked for their dog. This allows you to find out how a dog food reacts without having to buy it yourself and try it on your own dog. So, you get the benefit of someone else's experience. Reason #3 – Learn About Recalls – When you take the time to read dog food reviews you will also be able to learn about any recalls that may have been associated with that type of dog food. You may not know about all the dog food recalls that are out there, but when you read reviews, often you'll find out if there are any current recalls you need to know about. This can save you from having a serious problem with a dog food because you weren't aware there had been a recall on it. Reason #4 – Find Out Where to Purchase the Food – You'll also learn about where the best place is to purchase the food when you take time to read the reviews as well. The same dog food may cost a different price at different stores. When you read reviews you'll be more likely to find where you can find the best deal on that particular brand of food. Reason #5 – You'll Get More than a Sales Pitch – If you take the time to read dog food reviews, you can be sure that you'll get more than just a sales pitch. You'll learn what real people have to say about the food and you won't have to worry that they are just trying to sell it. Reading what the company has to say about their food only gives you a one sided opinion, so reading reviews can help you get a more rounded view of the dog food. Reason #6 – Discover Any Possible Problems – You will discover any possible problems with the food when you read the reviews about it as well. If it caused a dog a problem, you can find that out when you read what the review of that dog food has to say. This will allow you to learn about problems without having to experience them yourself. As you can see, reading reviews on dog food is definitely a great idea. These are just a few of the reasons that you should take the time to start reading the reviews. You owe it to your dog to make sure he gets the best possible food, so take the time to read dog food reviews to make sure your dog gets a food that will benefit him. About The Author: Increase the happy years of your dog by checking out my free e-book. In it I reveal all the secrets I've used to develop a happy, healthier dog. Visit Dr. Alfonso's http://www.cooldogh alloffame. com/dog-food- and-nutrition/ dog-food- reviews-% e2%80%93- 6-reasons- to-read-them/ 2519 dog food blog right now… Please use the HTML version of this article at: http://www.isnare. com/html. php?aid=244464

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What To Do If Your Dog Is Shoking

We all recognize that dogs occasionally suffer from the bad habit of taking everything they get hold to in their mouths, that includes electric cords, parts of broken toys, tennis balls, etc. Additional things that they are inclined to pick up all form of stones or rocks, small-scale toys to clothes, in essence anything they view as fun to play with. For some reason, dogs always appear to find a method to put physical objects inside their mouth that don't belong there! Regrettably, there are a lot of occasions when a dog incidentally swallows these objects and it gets stuck in his throat. A late instance of this was Oprah's Golden Retriever, who choke on a toy that belonged to one of her other dogs, a Cocker Spaniel, which is a smaller dog. Regrettably, Oprah's dog wasn't equally lucky as other dogs that have survived this situation. When a dog is choking, whenever the physical object isn't removed at once, there exists the probability that the animal will cease breathing and will go unconscious. This situation is more common with dogs, than the majority of people are aware of. Consequently I'd behoove of you to learn the basic acts that it takes to aid your dog from choking. This can invariably preserve the life of your loved pet. Have a look below at the basic First Aid steps which could come in handy in a case of a dog that is choking: If Your Dog Is Choking, But Remains Conscious 1. With two hands, loose your dog's mouth and look inside to see if you are able to see the physical object. If you are able to view it, try your best to remove it. 2. If you can't visualize the object, position your dog on its side and elevate the hindquarters. 3. Right away position your hand below the rib cage and your other hand on the dog's back. Press in and then up, altogether in one flowing motion. Continue applying pressure until the object is coughed out. 4. If the object doesn't come up, your dog might become unconscious. If this occurs, then perform the steps below. If Your Dog Becomes Unconscious 1. As declared above, make certain that the dog is positioned on his side with elevated hindquarters. 2. Open up the airway and make certain that the tongue is pulled out as far as possible and placed to the side. 3. Then perform several compressions in the same region that you had attempted to press in the rib cage. After two to three compressions, check the mouth looking for any alien physical objects by using the sweep of your finger. 4. Now give the dog a few breaths. 5. Repeat this cycle of compressions, finger sweeps, and artificial respiration breaths until your dog begins breathing by himself and displaces the object. If none of this works, and your dog is still having troubles or is unconscious, please don't pause to race him or her to the vet. A couple of minutes, or even seconds could constitute the difference between having your dog dead or alive. About The Author: Increase the happy years of your dog by checking out my free e-book. In it I reveal all the secrets I've used to develop a happy, healthier dog. Visit Dr. Alfonso's http://www.cooldogh alloffame. com/dog-health/ how-to-save- your-choking- dog/844 dog training blog right now… Please use the HTML version of this article at: http://www.isnare. com/html. php?aid=244088

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Dog Health Care and Dog First Aid

Even the best-cared-for dog may become sick or get injured at some point
in his life. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help you to help your dog
when it's most needed. If your dog falls victim to illness or accident,
you will need to do what you can to get him out of immediate danger,
administer first aid, and keep him comfortable until you can get him
to a veterinarian.

You should also be prepared to care for you dog in the event of weather
disasters or other emergencies.

Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling
against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage,
a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a
loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over
the dog's nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the
nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog's chin, then bring
the ends behind the back and tie again.
dog carefully to avoid causing further injury.
Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move
him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towels or blankets can
also be used as stretchers.

Artificial respiration to apply this first aid, the dog's mouth
should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus
or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog's
nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard.
Repeat every five to six seconds.

Heart massage (CPR) dog first aid. Lay the dog on his side, place
hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per
minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest
near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog's ribs.

External Bleeding dog first aid should be staunched by applying
gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary.

Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other
heavy object, can be more dangerous than bleeding externally. The
dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums,
blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge.

Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended
to by a veterinarian without delay.

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All About Pet Health Care and Vaccinations

gleaned from a conventional DVM PHD veterinarian:

For the last forty years it has been standard conventional veterinary practice in the United States to vaccinate dogs yearly for canine distemper virus (CDV), canine leptospirosis (CL), canine adenovirus-1 & hepatitis (CAV-1), canine parainfluenza virus (CPIV), canine parvovirus (CPV), canine Coronavirus (CV) as well as canine bordatella or kennel cough and Lyme disease.

There may be dog health problems associated with too frequent
vaccinations. For one, the immune system of your pet is stressed by
these vaccinations.

Occasionally dogs develop health problems such as allergic reactions, facial edema,
enteritis, lethargy, fevers, pruritis, nausea, and coughing.

Veterinarians also suspect that vaccinations can trigger certain autoimmune diseases
such as Adison's disease in dogs. Occasionally these reactions are life threatening.

By law, for dog health care, most states require a yearly rabies vaccination even though
studies have shown that many of the rabies vaccines used give the dog three years of
protection.

In the January 2004 issue of a U.S. veterinary journal, an article that was published by the
Pfizer Drug Company, determined that their dog vaccines were active (protective) up to
and beyond four years after administration for all five of these diseases (1). Other studies
have documented immunity lasting up to seven years (2)(3). No two vaccine manufactures
produce identical products so you should not assume that the brand your veterinarian uses
induces this long immunity for your dog's health, but it is suspected that they all protect
well over a year.

Least protective appear to be the vaccinations against CPIV, Bordatella, Lime Disease
and the various types of Leptospirosis. For optimum dog health care from these diseases,
an annual vaccination is probably a good idea. Another good protocol for your dog's health
would be to give your dog a booster vaccination against Bordatella (kennel cough)
about two weeks before it is kenneled.

The scientific way to determine if your dog needs a booster vaccination is to run
serum titer tests. Protective titres for CDV are 1:32 or greater. For CAV-1, CAV-2
and CPIV titer of 1:16 or greater are protective, and for CPV titer of 1:80 or greater
are protective; and mean your dog does not need a booster vaccination. Many
veterinary laboratories already offer this service.

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Find Some Useful Information On Dog Health Care!

Everything About Dog Health Care, Natural Dog Medicine, and Natural Medicine.

Signs Of A Healthy Dog

Skin - Optimum dog health care will promote skin that is flexible and smooth, without scabs, growths, white flakes, or red areas. It ranges in color from pale pink to brown or black depending on the breed. Spotted skin is normal, whether the dog has a spotted or solid coat.

Eyes - Optimum dog health promotes eyes that are bright and shiny. Mucus and watery tears are normal but should be minimal and clear. The pink lining of the eyelids should not be inflamed, swollen, or have a yellow discharge. Sometimes you can see your dog's third eyelid, a light membrane, at the inside corner of an eye. It may slowly come up to cover his eye as he goes to sleep. The whites of your dog's eyes should not be yellowish. Eyelashes should not rub the eyeball.

Ears - Optimum dog health care promotes ears that are light pink and clean. There should be some yellow or brownish wax, but a large amount of wax or crust is abnormal. There should be no redness or swelling inside the ear, and your dog shouldn't scratch his ears or shake his head frequently. Dogs with long, hairy ears, such as Cocker Spaniels, need extra attention to keep the ears dry and clean inside and out.

Nose - Optimum dog health promotes a nose that is usually cool and moist. It can be black, pink, or self-colored (the same color as the coat), depending on the breed. Nasal discharge should be clear, never yellowish, thick, bubbly, or foul smelling. A cool, wet nose does not necessarily mean the dog is healthy, and a dry, warm nose doesn't necessarily mean he's sick. Taking you dog's temperature is a better indication of illness.

Mouth, Teeth and Gums -

Optimum dog health care shows up as healthy gums that are firm and pink, black, or spotted, just like the dog's skin. Young dogs have smooth white teeth that tend to darken with age. Puppies have 23 baby teeth and adult dogs have approximately 42 permanent teeth, depending on the breed. To check your dog's mouth, talk to him gently, then put your hand over the muzzle and lift up the sides of his mouth. Check that adult teeth are coming in as they should, and not being crowded by baby teeth. Make sure the gums are healthy and the breath is not foul-smelling. Look for soft white matter or hard white, yellow, or brown matter. This is plaque or tartar, a pretty common dog health problem, and should be brushed away. Mouth infections can lead to serious problems in the gums and other parts of the body, including the heart, so it's important to keep their teeth and mouth healthy.

Temperature - A dog's normal temperature is 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celcius). To take your dog's temperature, you'll need a rectal thermometer. Put some petroleum jelly on the bulb of the thermometer. Ask someone to hold your dog's head while you lift his tail and insert the thermometer about an inch or so into the rectum. Do not let go of the thermometer. Hold it in until the temperature is read (about 3 minutes for a mercury thermometer), and then remove gently.

Heartbeat and Pulse- Because dogs come in a wide range of sizes, their heartbeats vary. A normal heart beats from 50 to 130 times a minute in a resting healthy dog. Puppies and small dogs have faster speeds, and large dogs in top condition have slower heartbeats. To check your dog's heartbeat, place your fingers over the left side of the chest, where you can feel the strongest beat. To check the pulse, which is the same speed as the heartbeat, press gently on the inside of the top of the hind leg. There is an artery there and the skin is thin, so it's easy to feel the pulse.

Elimination - Urine is a good indicator of a dog's health, and should be clear yellow. Most adult dogs have one or two bowel movements a day. Stools should be brown and firm. Runny, watery, or bloody stools, straining, or too much or too little urination warrant a call to the veterinarian.

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Pet Auto Safety

Seat Belts and Car Seats for Dogs

Does your dog love to travel in the car with you? You and your family wear

seat belts

when riding in the car. Does your pet? If you have not considered it,

here are eight important reasons why your dog should wear a pet auto
seat belt:

1. The dog won't be able to distract the person driving the car. Distractions
an be very dangerous to the driver. Some dogs are naturally well-behaved
in the vehicle but many dogs have to be trained car-riding decorum.
Why not train them in thepet auto seat belt instead?

2. Sudden unexpected stops won't cause the dog to fly forward into the dash,
the back
seat,
or onto the floor. Dog's noses are very sensitive. Hitting their nose on the dash or back
of the seat can be a very painful experience.

3. The dog won't be able to put their head out the window. Did you know that even a tiny spec
of flying debris can do serious damage to the dog's eye or nose? Many dogs love to put their
heads out the window, but it can be an equally pleasant experience if they are sitting in a pet
auto seat belt by an open window. They won't be able to put their heads out, but they can
still get a whiff of the multiple odors zipping by.

4. Not only will the dog not be able to put their head out the window, they won't be
able to get their body out either. Dogs are instinctive creatures and if something catches
their attention, such as another dog, a squirrel, or other animal, they may go after it
without a thought. Perhaps your dog is too smart to do this, but why take the chance?

5. Many dogs will run or even bite if frightened. What if you and your pet happen to be
in a serous auto accident? Your dog is going to be terrified. If there is a means of
escape, the dog may get out of the car and run. And where are they most likely to
run? It would be a terrible thing to survive an auto accident only to get hit by a car
. Even if there is no way for the dog to escape, they may need medical attention.
An injured dog may react defensively by tying to bite someone who is actually trying
to help them. A dog that is already restrained however, is easier to muzzle and
therefore, easier to attend to.

6. Did you know that some pet restraints are required for dogs traveling in the car
in the state of California? This type of law may soon be required in other states as
well. Get ahead by purchasing a pet auto seat belt now. If you wait until your state
passes such a law, there will be businesses that will take advantage of the
requirement and raise the prices on their products.

7. A pet auto seat belt can actually be quite comfortable once the dog gets used
to it. Dogs can have a difficult time lying down in a seat because of the turning,
speeding up, slowing down, and stopping movements of the car. Many dogs can
brace themselves better by standing or sitting. With a pet auto seat belt, a dog
can stand, sit, or lay down comfortably and not have to worry about bracing
themselves against car maneuvers.

8. Last but not least, a pet auto safety belt shows you to be a responsible and
caring pet owner as well as a responsible driver. Friends and strangers will be
impressed with your thoughtfulness and foresight. They in turn, may consider
getting a pet auto seat belt for their own dog. You can be indirectly responsible
for saving another dog's life.

As you can see, all eight reasons are excellent reasons for your dog to wear a
pet auto safety belt. Any argument against it are easily outweighed by the
examples above. So do what is safe, what is best for you and your pet, and
in some states, what is required by law. You and your dog will be all the
happier for it.

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