Thursday, July 30, 2009

Dog Training Collar aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

In an era of high speed Internet access, cell phones, and palm
pilot organizers, it was only a matter of time before dog
trainer would adopt the electronic training collar as an
acceptable and humane way of training dogs. Notice I did not use
the term "shock collar". The reason will become clear after a
brief look into the evolution of "The Dog Training Collar".

More than 30 years ago, electronic collars made their way into
the dog-training scene. However, because the first generation of
dog training collars were only capable of delivering one level
of stimulation to the dog, they where appropriately nicknamed
shock collars. These collars required the trainer to select the
level of correction by inserting an "intensity plug" into the
collar (before putting the collar on the dog for training, once
the collar was on the dog they could not change the intensity
level). This plug would then cause the collar to emit the same
level of stimulation for all corrections issued during the
session, regardless of how small or large the infraction – hence
the nickname - shock collars.

The term shock collar had a very negative connotation that
dramatically decreased their widespread acceptance in the
dog-training arena. It was commonly stated that, "Only hard
headed dogs that could not be trained by traditional means where
run with shock collars". As a result, very few professional
trainers were public about their use of electronic dog collars
fearing that clients would not entrust dogs to their care.
However, some professionals, including legendary Rex Carr, where
up-front about their use of electronic collars and worked
diligently at developing a training program that utilized the
collar in a way dogs could understand. Rex quickly became know
as a pioneer of training retrievers with electronic collars. In
fact, most if not all training techniques used today with
retrievers are derivate from Rex's original work.

Recognizing the limitations of the first generation of
electronic dog training collars, manufacturers worked to refine
their design. It was only until the release of the second
generation of electronic collars that allowed the trainer to
vary the level of intensity from the hand-held transmitter. The
trainer could now select from one of three levels of intensity
for a particular "intensity plug": high, medium and low. This
design still had its shortcomings. The trainer still only had 3
levels of stimulation to choose from and the lowest level of
stimulation was typically inappropriate for simple corrections.

While the second generation of electronic collars was a great
advancement in dog training collars, this technology was
replaced in the last decade by collars that gave the trainer the
ability to select multiple levels of intensity from the
transmitter. This single advancement combined with customer
education has done more for the widespread acceptance of the
electronic collar than any other advancement in the collar's
history.

Manufacturers quickly recognized that a great design alone was
not going to give their product the acceptance needed to support
their newfound industry; it was only through education that new
customers would understand how to use these training devices to
advance their dog in a proper manner. The most significant form
of education came when Tri-Tronics released a book written by
Jim and Phyllis Dobbs and Alice Woodward, Tri-Tronics Training
Retrievers. This book focused on incorporating electronic
collars in all phases of training retrievers and walked the
reader through a series of detailed steps, bringing a dog from A
to Z.

As a result of the technological advancements and the
educational support provided by manufacturers, the days of the
"shock collar" are gone, giving way to the remote training
collars. Today, like cell phones, its becoming more difficult to
find someone who trains without an electronic collar.

The remainder of this article will focus on the technology
found in many of the collars manufactured by the industry
leaders and explain how each is applicable in training gundogs
and your selection of an electronic collar.

Types of Stimulation - Continuous Stimulation vs. Momentary
Stimulation

Let's start by defining the two forms of stimulation available
on the market today. First, there is continuous stimulation;
this method of stimulation delivers an electronic correction to
the dog for as long as the trainer presses the button on the
transmitter. If the trainer holds the button down for five
seconds the dog will receive five seconds worth of stimulation.
However, most models on the market today will timeout after
seven to ten seconds of stimulation has been applied to the dog.


The second form of stimulation available on some collars is
momentary stimulation. Momentary stimulation, sometimes call a
"nick", is different from continuous stimulation in one simple
way; no matter how long the trainer depresses the button, the
dog will only receive a short electronic correction, the
duration of which is measured in a fraction of a second.

When might you use continuous or momentary stimulation?

Continuous form of stimulation can be used in training when you
need to extend a meaningful correction to your dog and
re-establish control of a training situation. A great example of
a training scenario where you might need to apply continuous
stimulation is when you need to gain control over your dog on a
runner. In this situation, a simple "nick" or short burst of
stimulation may do nothing to stop him on that illusive cock
pheasant. Often, a dog might just run through a short burst of
electronic stimulation because he is too excited about the
prospect of fresh scent to listen to your sit or "hup" whistle.
The continuous level of stimulation is what is required to stop
him in his tracks. Because the correction is applied to the dog
for as long as you hold the button down the effect to the dog is
a stronger form of correction. Another example of when
continuous stimulation would be a valuable training tool would
be when teaching a flushing dog to turn on the "come around"
whistle. Here you would use a much lower level of stimulation
and apply the stimulation in conjunction with the "come around"
command/whistle, only releasing the pressure when he complies
with your command. In both training scenarios, the dog has to be
taught the way out of the pressure (or the correct response)
before utilizing a collar.

Momentary stimulation can be used in training when you need to
apply a short, light form of correction. A classic training
scenario where we would use momentary stimulation is when
utilizing "indirect pressure" during training. With indirect
pressure, you want to apply a short, quick correction for not
compiling to a command after you have gotten control over him
through attrition. For example, if your dog refuses to take a
"right-handed angled back" command on a blind retrieve,
momentary stimulation can be used after stopping him with a firm
"sit" whistle, "nicking" him once he is sitting for refusing to
take the "right-handed angle back" command, then re-issuing the
"angle back" command. In this case, the momentary stimulation
applies a short less intense correction that does not "rock the
boat".

Range

Upon first consideration, you may not think that you would need
an electronic collar that has a range of one mile. However, if
you are hunting over a big running pointer, in the thick
backwoods of New England, you might be better served with a
collar that has an effective range of a half-mile or greater
than a collar with less range. Most manufacturers quote
"line-of-sight" range for their collars. However, the effective
range of an electronic collar can vary according to terrain and
environmental conditions. For basic obedience and most yard
work, a collar that is capable of extending to 150 to 300 yards
is more than adequate. However, if you are training in the field
or working in any type of cover, more range is needed to produce
a reliable signal.

Intensity Levels

Maybe the most important advancements in the electronic collar
in the past ten years has been the change in the design of the
electronic collar to allow a trainer to change levels of
stimulation at the transmitter, rather than at the collar. In
days gone past, a trainer could only change the levels of
stimulation by physically changing the "intensity plug" and/or
contact points on the collar itself.

Today, virtually all quality dog training collars on the market
allow the trainer to select the level of stimulation from the
transmitter. The old term, shock collar is no longer accurate,
the term "electronic training collars" has since replaced this
term primarily due to this single design change which allows a
trainer to select just the right amount of stimulation necessary
to correct the dog making the electronic collar a humane
approach to training dogs. Now you can select a mild level of
stimulation (barely noticeable by human touch) or a severe level
of correction that would make even the toughest man take notice.
The responsibility is now with the trainer to select the
appropriate correction for the dog.

Transmitter Design

Probably the most important factor in regards to usability of
an electronic collar rests within the transmitter design. Most
transmitters on the market today fit easily into your hand.
However, differences exist in the design of the transmitter.
Some manufacturers make transmitters that are small, lightweight
and can be hung on a lanyard. Other manufacturers make
transmitters that are larger but extremely easy to use. Like
most things in life, it comes down to personal preference. In
order for any collar to be an effective training device it must
be easy to use and be able to apply the correction at the exact
moment it is needed. The last thing you want to be doing is
fumbling for your transmitter, setting an intensity level when
you should be delivering a firm correction that the dog will
understand.

The last feature to take into consideration when evaluating the
design of a transmitter is the resistance of the transmitter to
weather. Some transmitters are water resistant while others are
waterproof. If using an electronic collar while waterfowling you
might want to consider a transmitter that is waterproof and can
endure a "fall in the drink".

Collar Design

The final consideration when choosing an electronic collar is
the design of the collar/receiver unit itself. Some earlier
models of electronic collars, intended for upland use, had
external antennas that extended beyond the body of the collar
and often became caught up on or became damaged by heavy brush.
This design has since been replaced with antennas that are
self-contained within the body of the receiver unit.

Like the transmitter design, collars also come in units that
are water resistant and waterproof. If you intend on using your
dog in or around water I would highly recommend purchasing a
collar that is waterproof. These collars can be fully submerged
in water while in the field without harming the internal
electronics, a must for most hunters.

Final Note

Used correctly, the electronic collar can be an invaluable tool
when training your gundog. There is no other tool that can help
you effectively apply a correction to your dog than one of the
many electronic collars on the market today. The days of chasing
down your dog to apply a traditional correction (only have lost
the significance of the timing) are long gone. Now you can
effectively and reliably apply the correction at the moment when
it is needed. Do your homework, if you have any questions
regarding the selection an dog training collars a.k.a. shock
collars, please don't hesitate to visit us at Gun Dogs Online.


About The Author: Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of
GundogsOnline.com, the internet's premiere online magazine
dedicated to http://www.gundogsonline.com/ hunting dogs. If you
have any questions regarding choosing
http://www.gundogsonline.com/dog-training-collars/ dog training
collars or http://www.gundogsonline.com/shock-collar/ shock
collars, please don't hesitate to visit their site.

Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=276806

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Saturday, July 25, 2009

Bringing A New Pup Home

So you got a little cutie puppy in your hand. He looks so cute
with his little sweet nose and playful eyes. So what next?
Naturally, you'll take the little one home...Wait for a second.
It may not be as easy as it seems. Being a pet lover, you have
many pets at home as well, and this one is a new pet and not the
only one!

In that case it is you who is responsible to build comfort
between your pets. They after all have to coexist peacefully
under one roof. If you are concerned as to how your other pets
would take to their new companion, your concerns are valid
because different animals react differently to the presence of
an additional pet. So the introduction can be a lot more tricky
than the Hello-I-am-Alice kind of very human introductions.

Ensure that you give an entire day to the animal to warm up to
its surrounding and to get accustomed to the presence of other
pet(s). When you bring it home make sure that you keep him
company. Don't leave him home alone. That could make him very,
very uncomfortable.

Now, if you have a cat at home, you need to be extra careful.
Not too much, just a little prudence would do. On the first few
times when the puppy and cat come face to face, make sure that
the puppy is on lease so that you could pull him clear of the
cat in case he reacts unpredictably. Cats are normally very
territorial and tend to assert their territorial rights. The
puppy must be made to understand early that he is not supposed
to intrude into the cat's personal space, neither should he
meddle with cats things. They'll eventually grow friendly, but
if they do not contact your vet as soon as you can.

If there is another dog at home, the lease rule remains so that
no uncalled for harm is done. If there are many dogs at home,
ensure that the puppy gets to know each of them separately and
there is no collective introduction. The little one should not
be taken to the big dog, for in that case the big one will be
meeting the young one in his territory, which could be rather
menancing the newcomer.

A little bit of growling and sniffing is natural but snapping
and biting are not. So, if they indulge in any such unacceptable
behaviour, they must be disciplined. Make sure that your current
dog does not feel left out on the account of the new pet. So,
make sure that your affection towards him increases.

Seniority must be maintained in eating and playing. So, when it
is time to eat, the new one should eat separately and its food
should be served only after the older ones. The new toys must
also first go to the senior pets.

They'll gradually grow into good companions and you'll have a
nice little happy family of friendly pets.


About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dogs visit http://www.thepetdogs.com/

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Bringing That Sweetest Little 'puppy' Home

The cutest dog you must have seen is not of any certain breed
and if you think hard enough you'll find that the cutest and
prettiest of dogs are not actually dogs; they are puppies.

There is nothing quite as cut as a little doggy. He jumps
around like a furry tennis ball. Energetic, bubbly and happy, it
ever seems so pleased, so unbothered and so unperturbed by the
worries of life and living. A ball of happy innocence. What else
do you need to relax after a hectic day of work. No massage in
the world can relax you as completely as the very sight of
little doggy. And if you have kids, nothing like it. They make
the best picture together- little ones playing together.

So far as training is concerned, puppies are best pupils
because they learn quickly and without their personal
prejudices. Now if you are ready to get a puppy for yourself you
may rush to the nearby pet store to check if they have anything
that catches your fancy. It is best to bring in a puppy in the
morning so that it gets enough time to get used to its
surroundings before it's bedtime.

Do not leave the puppy alone for long durations immediately
after having brought him home. The little one should not be left
alone at home from day two because it is likely to sadden him a
lot. The fellow would miss its companions a lot after being
separated from them. So, make sure that someone is there to take
care of it when you are not around.

These little things have a simple life, especially those who
have just weaned. All they do is eat-sleep-play, eat-sleep-play.
Nothing else. Take care that you have his little sleeping bed
ready when he feels tired because the fellow is likely to
stretch right there where it feels tired. Cuddle it and take it
to his bed and lay him there. Eventually, he will get into the
habit of coming around to sleep where he wakes up regularly.

Feeding is important too because they are frequent eaters in
the beginning. A 12 week old puppy eats four times a day. When
it is 12 weeks to 6 months old, you may reduce it to 3 times a
day. Between six months and one year of age, it would be happy
with one meal a day, of course depending upon the overall size
and weight of it.

And don't forget the puppies are much like children. Scold them
gently and praise them profusely. That's the best way to train
them.


About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dogs visit http://www.thepetdogs.com/

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Training Dogs: Tips On Breaking Bad Pet Habits

You want a nice, disciplined dog, who doesn't chew on anything
and everything in the sight and doesn't deafen you with his
needless barks. These are one of the most common dog problems
and can be really irritating at times. They can, however, be
corrected by proper training. Here are a few effective ways of
bringing in correction in your dog's habits:

Barking
Barking come naturally to them, and what use is a dog that
doesn't even bark. However, at time dogs overdo it and keep
barking without a reason and sometimes even after their barks
have been taken cognizance of and the offending element removed.
Then, it is high time he had his lessons in "barking habits."

Most often dogs bark to tell the owner what they feel he must
know, like an intruder, any unusual moving object, any unusual
activity or sound. They feel that it is important for them to
inform you at the earliest. This kind of warning bark is
perfectly alright, but if your dog keep barking even after
having been told not to, he needs to be trained about it.

In such situations take a squirt bottle filled with water, and
every time the dog barks unnecessarily squirt the liquid right
in his face after telling him not to bark in a loud "No". The
liquid or the squirt wouldn't harm the creature but he wouldn't
like it and would get the message eventually. This is
disciplinary action and must be adopted only when the dog
doesn't respond to your verbal commands. Keep it as a second
option and not the first.

Chewing
Chewing is not only destructive but is potentially dangerous to
the dog as well, because they might ingest pieces of plastic or
wood or any other harmful object that could block their
intestines, which could be life threatening. Puppies' chewing is
acceptable because that's part of teething, but if the habit is
retained into adulthood, it needs to be corrected.

It is better to start early. So, you need not wait till the dog
grows up to teach him not to chew on things that are not meant
for his chewing. The strategy for the pup as well as for the dog
remain the same. Get some toys for the dog to chew on, and train
him to restrict his chewing to them. Watch him carefully and if
he chews on things other than his chew toys, look into his eyes
at close quarters and say in a loud voice, "No!" and then offer
one of his chew toys. He would get the message as to what has to
be chewed on and what not.

Begging for food
Never give the dog to eat from your dinner table or your plate.
Make him learn that he gets nothing by begging for food but gets
to eat at the proper time. And if, unfortunately you already
have a dog who has such a habit lock him up in another room
while you eat.

You want dogs to behave well, but good behaviour is not
something one is born with. One-- be it a human or a dog-- has
to learn to behave. So, right training is the key.


About The Author: To get more information on pet dogs, dog
breeds and dog training and care visit

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Where Did Zoos Come From?

What country has the most?

Were animals tamed in the Stone Age?

Where was there ever an all-day parade of wildlife?

Whose zoo required 10,000 keepers?

Intriguing questions all. Here are some of the answers my
research uncovered.

We know that the first zoos of which we have recorded evidence
are those pictured on the walls of Egyptian tombs. Paintings
around 2500 B.C. depict gazelles, wild goats, oryx and other
antelopes as zoo animals.

History also tells us the Chinese kept wild animals in "parks
of intelligence," starting about 3,000 years ago.

But I was also interested to find that even back in the Stone
Age, man apparently tamed dogs, horses, goats and cattle for
domestic use.

During my years on the San Diego Zoo staff, I learned that as
long ago as the 10th century, Europe had zoos. In the 1960s some
400 collections existed in the world, our country claiming the
most with 87, followed by Germany's 42 menageries open to the
public.

The classical Greeks are said to have revolutionized the zoo
concept of only belonging to the rich and powerful. By the 5th
Century B.C. common people could pay to see caged birds and wild
animals.

Alexander the Great had special animal collectors attached to
his armies to gather specimens for the royal zoos. In those
days, monkeys from Africa and Asia were common household pets in
Greece.

In the 3rd Century B.C., Alexandria, sometimes called the
world's greatest city, apparently had one of the finest zoos of
its time. Its wild inhabitants were paraded to the huge stadium
every year on the day of the Feast of Dionysus.

One such parade, during the reign of Ptolemy II, reportedly
took all day to pass the reviewing stand! The parade included 24
lions, 14 leopards, 96 elephants, 16 ostriches, 16 cheetahs, a
white bear, 12 camels, a giraffe, a huge python, innumerable
deer, antelopes, gazelles and even rhinoceros.

Rich Romans had private zoos. But the imperial city eventually
had a government zoo, mainly to provide animals for the circuses
in the Coliseum. This zoo was limited to the wildest, largest
and fiercest animals.

Private zoos in early Rome concentrated on birds, the more
brilliantly feathered, the better.

The next notable western zoo had to wait until the first great
western emperor appeared. Charlemagne had a trio of zoos, with
monkeys and an elephant donated by Haroun al Raschid, the caliph
of "The 100l Nights."

Even William the Conqueror, not a particularly rich or powerful
king, had a small royal zoo. It turned out to be a forerunner of
the deer parks that became popular among England's landed
gentry.

Marco Polo claimed that Kublai Khan had the greatest zoo up to
his time. It required, Marco claimed, 10,000 zoo keepers!

Emperor Frederick II had three permanent zoos in Italy. He sent
some specimens from them to his friend Henry III of England.
That began the English king's zoo, housed in the Tower of
London.

In one way, Louis XIV of France was the father of the modern
zoo. He built his Menagerie du Parc at Versailles on a unified
plan, much like modern zoos, with cages and enclosures grouped
together. Until then zoos had been spread over the owner's
parkland, aviaries in place, bear pits in another, and lion
cages far away.

Louis also landscaped his zoo, and put in plants and trees as
rare and exotic as some of his animals. This may well have been
the first zoological garden, as contrasted with menagerie.

A few centuries later, the San Diego Zoo was the first major
U.S. zoo to build on that concept. Today the horticulture is
believed to be worth more than the collection of 5,000 exotics.

However, the Philadelphia Zoological Society planned the first
U.S. zoo back in 1859, but start of construction was held up
when the Civil War broke out. It finally opened in 1874, having
been rushed to completion in time for the Centennial Exposition
of 1876.

The San Diego Zoo also got its start with an international
fair, the Panama-California Exposition, in l916. The Fair
included animal exhibits, and when the Exposition was over, many
of the exhibitors just took off, leaving the animals.

A local physician, Dr. Harry Wegeforth, while riding his horse
in the city's Balboa Park, heard a distant roar from one of the
abandoned lion cages. It sparked the idea to build San Diego a
zoo nearby to care for these animals, and he soon set out to
raise funds and select a location.

A world-class zoological garden eventually resulted, its 5,000
animal collection attracting over 3 million visitors a year.

Zoos exist to exhibit, study, and preserve animals. Whatever
other purposes a zoo serves, whatever other uses a zoo may be
put to, it is basically a residence for animals. Zoos are for
people, but the animal and its welfare come first (something not
true in many of the sad-looking "roadside zoos" housing
miserable animals).


About The Author: Bill Seaton is a prize-winning author and
lecturer who has served nearly 25 years as public relations
director of the San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld and the California State
Lottery. To learn more about the San Diego resident's books,
blogs and awards.

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Friday, July 24, 2009

How to Brush My Dogs Teeth


A devoted dog owner does everything humanly possible to ensure
their dogs hygiene. However, one area that bewilders dog owners
is how to brush my dogs teeth?

Why Brush A Dog's Teeth?

Dogs suffer from a variety of tooth problems, just like their
owners:

1. Loose teeth
2. Abscess teeth
3. Cavities
4. Periodontal disease

The common symptom of periodontal disease is bad breath. In
fact, 98% of all dogs with bad breath suffer from periodontal
disease. If there is a delay in treatment, the bacterial
infection can develop and spread to the dog's kidney, liver,
heart and brain.

Thus, it becomes important to brush the dogs teeth.

Steps In Brushing A Dog's Teeth:

Many dog owners take their dogs to the vet for a regular teeth
cleaning. Many vets offer medical plans for pets that include
this important routine. Usually they will put the dog to sleep
or medicate the dog to avoid bites. This is safer for the dog
and the vet. However, if you cannot afford to do this and/or
choose to do it yourself, below are the steps to take in
cleaning your dog's teeth.

1. Allow a vet to check the dog's teeth before brushing.
Otherwise, brushing may be painful, and it will associate
brushing with pain.

2. The dog needs to be used to the owner checking its mouth
regularly. Reward the dog for cooperation.

3. Get a pet dental kit from a pet store. It needs to have a
pet toothbrush, pet toothpaste and a finger toothbrush that the
owner can wear on a finger and brush the dog's teeth.

4. Human toothpaste is not edible and dogs are likely to
swallow toothpaste.. Therefore, try to buy beefy flavored
toothpaste that the dog can enjoy. In addition, avoid
toothpastes with detergents, salt or baking soda. Instead, try
to buy toothpastes containing fluoride and enzymes, as they are
good for dogs' teeth.

5. Ease in the brushing process. On day one, merely wipe the
dog's teeth with gauze. Later, adapt the pet to warm water
brushing. Finally, add toothpaste.

6. To brush the dog's teeth, place the brush bristles at a
45-degree angle to the teeth, at the border where the teeth meet
the gums. Gently, move the brush in an oval motion, to complete
ten back-and-forth motions. Then, move the brush to cover at
least 3-4 teeth at a time.

7. Remember to brush the dogs teeth all the way to the back,
which is where most problems develop.

Other Important Tips:

A dog's dental hygiene will not be flawless, if you only brush
the dog's teeth. Try some of these tips to ensure a good dental
health for the dog:

1. To avoid the onset of periodontal disease, take the dog to a
vet for regular checks.

2. Vets can also clean the teeth occasionally to remove tartar
deposits.

3. Feed hard foods to the dog or give bones or hard toys to
chew on.

These are certain systematic ways of avoiding dental problems,
but do not forget to brush your dog's teeth regularly.

About The Author: "Healthcare for
Dogs" is all about Dogs Health Care, Supplies and Training.

.

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